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On the Grill - Eight Minutes ’til Bliss

Posted by Banjo on Sunday, July 8th, 2007 at 5:56 pm

Buff with wingsHere's a baseball-lite version of the OTG.

With the All-Star Game ahead of us, here's a little something to consider when you're putting together your feedbag for the big game. If you're looking for the perfect snack to wash down with a few beers, consider this non-deep fried version of "Wings." One of the more interesting aspects of wings, in addition to the literally thousands of possible recipes, is how they've become such a staple of modern day bar-fare and how important they've become to restaurant profitablility. Wings, my friends, are big business.

More Popular than Nachos?
Interestingly enough, according to Nancy Kruse, president of Atlanta-based The Kruse Co., which assesses trends and directions in food, menu and restaurant concepts, wings have become the no. 1 most-menued appetizer, having overtaken nachos in the past several years. But the "wings business" is a tough business as demand for ethanol and other factors push food costs up. Like Shelby and crew, this story would not be complete unless I tossed in some useless local angle to the story of higher wing costs. But, in OTG fashion, I say, forget going out when you can create a better product at home. Even with rising costs, grilled at home, $10 bucks worth of wings can feed a small army of guys (or gals).

Show Me Some Skin
For some people wings are an obsession and it's easy to see why. They are great finger food and simply a ton of fun to eat. They go great with beer and they can be spiced in an almost infinite amount of ways. So, what is it which makes these little morsels so darn tasty? Spices help, but the key is something else. This is the part where you have to tell your cardioilogist to avert his eyes. The key to chicken wings is the fat-laden skin. The wing simply has a tremendous skin to meat ratio and it all adds up to tasty goodness. It's helpful too that wings, like the thigh, tend to hold sauces well and can be grilled at relatively high heat without drying out the meat. That said, in the case of this grilled recipe, since you are not relying on the deep fryer to crisp up the skin, the critical component to making a superb wing relies on a hot grill and using that heat to crisp the skin.

The Process
In the case of this recipe, you can cook the wings whole, but if you want to create the little "drumettes" you'll need to cut wings apart at joints. If you've never done it, here's a nifty video showing how to create the "drumettes". When you're finished cutting, rinse well under cool water and pat bone dry with a paper towel. As mentioned in a previous post, you could brine the wings. My opinion is here, given the quick cooking times and the fat content, you can skip it without compromising this recipe as much as you would doing other chicken parts or a whole bird.

Rub It In, Rub It In
Instead of using a wet sauce for mopping or in combination with a rub, these wings will be rubbed and grilled dry. Making a rub is not complicated and if you like the taste, you can make extra and keep it in an air tight container to have on hand. I suppose a guy could cut corners and buy a commercial rub of some sort, but once again, in most cases you've got everything you need in your pantry. In the case of this rub, the heat is coming from cayenne which has been used for a long time as both a spice and for its healing power. If you want 'em hot, simply calibrate the amount of cayenne. I think a teaspoon and a half in this rub gives you a nice burn, without totally overpowering the rest of the spices. I like to apply the rub by hand, completly coverting each wing and drummette, forcing some of the rub under the skin on a cooking sheet. When finished, I dump all the parts into a large ziplock, collect all the excess rub and throw that into the bag and toss them around some more. Then throw into the fridge for at least two hours.

Time is on Your Side
While this recipe does require at least a couple of hours of marinating time, one of the things that is great about this recipe is, that the cook time is generally less than 10 minutes - in fact as the title of this entree states, it can be done roughly 8 minutes. If you are grilling for guests, it makes it very easy to look like a pro and time your appetizer course perfectly. Imagine greating your guests with a plate a smokey, spicywings hot off the grill and a cold beer. If you are solo, it's easy to time the grilling to coincide perfectly with the first pitch.

After the two hours of marninating time, I like to pull the wings out for about a half hour to get them to room temperature. In this half hour you can also start the grill and put a couple of big handfuls of wood chips into a bowl of water. For the grill in most cases, since I will also be grilling a main course, I use a full chimney of briquettes, even mounding out of the chimney so I have plenty of heat and plenty of coals. To minimize sticking, you'll want to make sure the grate is as clean as possible and well oiled. I usually let the heat burn off the crud, wire brush and then use an oiled, rolled rag to wipe down the cooking surface. When the coals are ready, I zone the heat by dumping the coals to one side of the grill, I mound them in a hill, high against the side of the kettle, cascading to a single layer at the bottom of the hill. I put a drip pan under the open half of the grill. When I have everything arranged, I put the chips onto the coals and wait for them to starty smoking. The result here, is that you are going to have a very hot grill overall, with intense heat on one side, tapering toward the center. The uber-hot side will be used the crisp the skin and cooler-zone will give you a spot to keep the wings from getting too charred.

Grill 'Em Up
Once you've got everything arranged and your chips start to smoke, start putting the wings on the grill, starting on the cooler side working forward to the halfway point (keep the wings off the coals though) and put the lid on the grill. I let them cook/smoke for about 3-4 minutes and when you remove the lid you can see from the overall heat, that they've started to cook. Then, using a pair of long tongs and a spatula, I start crisping the skin. I use the spatula to pry loose anything that's sticking as to not leave the meat on the grill and I work quickly through each individual wing, moving them over the hot part of the coals and rotating them to get both sides and them moving the finished wings to the cooler side of the grill. If you put the wings on the grill in organized rows, you can do several pieces simultaneously, moving and flipping the wings to make sure not to char them (too much) over the intense heat. When you've crisped them all, remove them from the grill onto a plate and serve with plenty of napkins and your beverage of choice.

The Meats
12 chicken wings

The Rub
2 tablespoons sweet paprika
3/4 teaspoon cayenne
2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 teaspoons onion powder
2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon parsley
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Optional
Hickory Chips for creating a little smoke

The Preparation
Stir dry ingredients, rub onto chicken, put chicken wings in a plastic bag. Shake well and leave in refrigerator at least 2 hours. Place on preheated grill and cook for approximately 8 minutes or until done.

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This entry was posted by Banjo on Sunday, July 8th, 2007 at 5:56 pm and is filed under Guest Writers, On The Grill. It is one of 60 entries by the author. We are no longer accepting Letters to the Editor on this post. Why?

13 LTEs

SBG
SBG replied on July 8th, 2007 at 9:10 pm

Although the skin is pretty bad for you, this recipe at least doesn't make it worse by adding a fat ingredient, which I believe a lot of them do.

Banjo
Banjo replied on July 8th, 2007 at 9:55 pm

Yes, these aren't breaded, deep fried, or drenched in butter infused Frank's Red Hot. Not that there's anything wrong with that. I served them (last night) straight up -no dipping sauce either with ice-cold Pacificos. I had the leftovers for lunch -served cold with some black bean, corn and tomato salad. Served cold, like that might make for a neat picnic appetizer.

I negated the positive effects of a 40 mile morning bike ride- but I figure I still came out a smidge ahead.

brianS
brianS replied on July 9th, 2007 at 1:12 am

The wait for a new edition was painful but, I must say, worth it. Masterful.

and what, I might ask, would be wrong with serving butter-infused Red Hot as a dipping sauce for these?

tonight was BLT night in the S household. I splurged for a couple big, beautiful heirloom tomatoes at the store the other day. We only ate one of the two. Sadly, it wasn't as flavorful as I'd hoped. But it worked fine in the samwhiches.

saturday: pork chops marinated in light and dark soy, sambal, coconut milk and pineapple juice, then grilled. I cooked the marinade down (with added brown sugar and white vinegar) for a sauce.

On the side: a couscous salad (1 cup couscous prepared per package instructions, grated carrot and cucumber, a can each of kidney beans and garbanzo beans, chopped red onion, green onion, cherry tomatoes and lots of parsley, with a light dressing -- 1/4 c. olive oil, the juice of one lemon, a splash or two of white vinegar to up the acidity, a couple garlic cloves crushed and smushed into a paste w/some kosher salt, and some cracked pepper).

so, kind of an East-meets-Middle East dinner.

couscous is an under-appreciated pasta. it "cooks" in about 5 minutes (bring 1 c. water to boil with a little salt and butter, stir in 1 c. couscous, turn off heat and cover; in 5 minutes uncover, fluff with fork and you are good to go!). If you are too lazy (like me) to make bulghur for a proper tabouleh, it makes a great substitute. Not as chewy, but easy and flavorful.

Banjo
Banjo replied on July 9th, 2007 at 8:51 am

I'm with you on the Couscous. I always have a couple of boxes in the pantry. Those chops sound great - you are the master.

I did Flank Steak Fajitas for the main course, marinated with a paste of garlic and salt, cumin, lemon juice and olive oil. I made a mountain of spicy pico de gallo, and used 3 heaping tablespoons of it to make guacamole. I borrowed from the local SW place called Tejas and added 10 drops of "green" tabasco and two dashes of Worcestershire to the guacamole and salt to taste. It was better than the Bittman recipe which I've done for years. It was hot, but brownie sundaes with vanilla ice cream, nuts and whipped cream for dessert. Stuart Little projected on the side of the garage for the kids.

I was in a hurry cleaning and cooking, but I should have snapped some photos of the wings. Credit for the recipe should go out to my friend Rick who made a similar dish on the 4th of July.

brianS
brianS replied on July 9th, 2007 at 9:14 am

mmmm. there's another (two) things. homemade salsa and guacamole. mmmmmm. mas cerveza, por favor.

New Britain Bo
New Britain Bo replied on July 9th, 2007 at 8:38 pm

Ever had the table-side guac at Bar Abilene in th' Twin? Cerveza mas fina (con limon), and fresh avocada, garlic, lemon, and some hooch.

(LTEs wont nest below this level)
Banjo
Banjo replied on July 9th, 2007 at 9:31 pm

I've not had that. I did have a plate of Fajitas there a couple weeks back. Sounds solid, though.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
New Britain Bo
New Britain Bo replied on July 8th, 2007 at 9:42 pm

First buffalo/chix product I recollect was from the Knickerbockers bar (still there?) - load up on wings/beers and head over the bridge to the Twins game.

brianS
brianS replied on July 9th, 2007 at 1:15 am

in grad school, we used to go to a brewpub way the heck out in the San Diego 'burbs (east and north) for 10-cent wing night. Oh, my. You can eat a lot of wings at 10 cents per. Or at least I could back in the early 1990s.

sadly, the 10-cent price did not last. I think the were jacked all the way up to 15 cents before I finished my degree. Probably more like a quarter now.

 
E-6
E-6 replied on July 9th, 2007 at 10:10 am

I believe my first buffalo wings were also at The Knickerbocker, Bo. Served 'em with a great house-made bleu cheese dressing, as I recall. I don't think it's still there, but I don't get to the West Bank any more.

As long as I'm in the "way-back" machine, does anybody remember the "King of Wings"? He was an old gentleman in a satin jacket and scarf headband (always reminded me of a grandfatherly Little Richard) who peddled his signature wings in foil-packets out of a small Coleman cooler in bars across Minneapolis. 4 for a buck, spicy, salty as hell, and no-doubt MSG laden. Also dee-lish, especially if you caught him when they were fresh. The sight of the King shuffling into the joint (Cabooze, Duffy's, wherever) around midnight was a beautiful thing. His shop on Broadway and Washington, open until 3 AM on weekend nights, was always a hoot to visit, as well. They drew a rather interesting crowd to that location.

 
 
E-6
E-6 replied on July 9th, 2007 at 10:23 am

Man, oh man. Banjo and bS eat like kings. The chops and flank steaks (and beautiful sides) y'all had this week sounded fantastic.

Also a big fan of couscous salads. My favorite recipe very similar to brian's, but I use black beans as my protein source. It's a dish as visually beautiful as it is flavorful.

Algonad
Algonad replied on July 9th, 2007 at 8:40 pm

My grilling feature wouldn't be quite as exotic.

1 Check Cub Foods B.O.G.O. meat coupons
2 Buy meat on sale
3 Throw on grill
4 Flip
5 Eat

 
 
brianS
brianS replied on July 9th, 2007 at 1:31 pm

say, with the ethanol surge "fueling" price increases for corn-based animal feeds, I wonder what's happening to the price premium for range-fed beef over "standard" beef? It's gotta be closing, right?

maybe someday I will discover that I can "afford" the real beef. Of course, by then I will probably be like Edward G. Robinson's Sol Roth, saving my pennies for one last meat splurge before I turn myself into Soylent Green.

Sol: Why, in my day, you could buy meat anywhere! Eggs they had, real butter! Fresh lettuce in the stores.
Det. Thorn: I know, Sol, you told me before.

 

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