Pint-Sized Review: Traquair House Ale
Posted by brianS on Monday, August 4th, 2008 at 4:00 pm
Now, I know that I'm something of a pollyanna when it comes to beer reviews. I like a lot of beer and nearly every style is "one of my favorites". So I'll understand if some of you are getting a boy-who-cried-wolf sort of feeling when I tell you that this beer is really good.
If you dismiss this review, however, you will really be missing out on a GREAT beer. Josh Hamilton Story great, I'm telling you. Huge. Ginormous.
Traquair House Ale
Traquair House, home turf of the brewery, claims to be the oldest continually inhabited house in Scotland. Of course, that might be like the longest marriage to Elizabeth Taylor for all I know, but whatever. It's a cool house. Traquair House brewery was founded in 1965 by Peter Maxwell Stuart, 20th Laird of Traquair. The brewery occupies the space of what had been a brewery on the premises in the 18th century. The operation is tiny, producing around 600 - 700 barrels a year (200,000 bottles and the remainder draught; for comparison, Anheuser-Busch in 2007 produced 128.4 million barrels; Stone Brewing Co. made about 70,000). All the beer is fermented in "the original oak vessels." When I grow up I am going to visit Traquair House for its annual beer festival in May.
The Traquair House Ale is one of the world's great beers ($5.49 for an 11.2 oz. bottle at my Bevmo, 7.2 pct ABV). It classifies as a Wee Heavy, or Strong Scotch Ale. This beer won a Platinum Medal at the 1997 World Beer Championships. Michael Jackson sang its praises. The boys at Beer Advocate gave it an "A+". And I'm here to do the same.
The beer pours dark, but translucent when held to the light, with a nice tan head. The nose is rich, fruity, malty, sweet and complex, but not cloying. The mouthfeel is soft and smooth. Unmistakable ale character -- not a stout. And the flavor, oh man. Again, complex, hinting at sweetness, but with a bit of hop bite and some oak, but no noticeable diacetyl (beyond perhaps the soft mouthfeel). Fruity, malty, chocolatey, refreshing, with a slight alcoholic kick as befits its size. It could very well be Arrakeen Spice Beer. I was entranced.
Of course, it didn't hurt that I had it with a perfectly grilled, medium-rare t-bone. I almost didn't bother with sides, but I mustered up the energy to make a quick chick pea salad: canned chick peas marinated in olive oil, salt, pepper, grated lemon zest, lemon juice, finely minced shallot and finely chopped, fresh tarragon (which gave off a beautiful anise-y aroma; I've never grown it before, but it is really good).
Food of the gods, I tell you. So please, do yourself a favor. If you ever see this beer on the shelf at your local beer store, buy it. Heck, if you see ANYTHING by Traquair, buy it. You are in for a treat.
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I think that since I am already stopping off at the local beer store, I will try and see if I can find any of this.
Their Jacobite ale is a tasty beer, too...the coriander isn't overpowering in the least.